Monday, February 1, 2010

The model issue of the fashion decade: Size Zero

So what was the big issue of this fashion decade? Well, it has to be size zero (and the plus size catwalk model) which kicked up a revolutionary storm in the industry and international press. 

 

Ana Carolina Reston 

In 2006 the anorexia-related deaths of several South American models sent serious shockwaves throughout the industry. Madrid and Milan quickly imposed a minimum BMI for models and the British Fashion Council speedily set up the Model Health Inquiry. The issue of size zero hit the headlines and has been the number one topic of debate of the industry ever since... 

THAT PICTURE
When US Glamour magazine published a picture last year of naked plus-size model Lizzie Miller showing an obvious roll of tummy fat, the reaction was fast and furious. 

 

Lizzie Miller in US Glamour 

Readers apparently loved the image, models everywhere no doubt breathed a sigh of relief and tucked into a chocolate bar but earlier in the year Karl Lagerfeld had announced the body size debate to be ‘absurd’ in response to German fashion magazine Brigitte’s use of ordinary women instead of models in its photo shoots. He stated the world of fashion was all about “dreams and illusions”. 

Editor-in-chief, Cynthia Lieve, said in a radio interview about the controversial picture: “I think what was revolutionary was the reaction that we got. They [the readers] all said, 'more please ... this we relate to'." 

THE YEARS OF THE WAIF
Fashion editor at the Washington Post, Robin Givhan, explained how the supermodel era of the 1980s was followed by the waif decade who "were substantially thinner" and then by a recent wave of even thinner Eastern European models. 

Givhan added: “I think that progressively, the fashion industry has had sort of the incredible, shrinking model. And it was only until it really became sort of dangerously thin that people really woke up and said, ‘my gosh, look how thin these girls are.” 

2009 was also the year British Vogue editor Alexandra Shulman infamously wrote an open letter to designers stating "We have now reached the point where many of the sample sizes don’t comfortably fit even the established star models." 

PLUS SIZE MODELS
Then when British designer Mark Fast sent size 14 model Hayley Morley down the runway at London Fashion Week in his signature knitwear designs again it sparked off outrage, this time, from the stylist who walked out and the inevitable industry debate. 

 

Hayley Morley 

Fast told The Guardian: "I wasn't trying to make a huge statement, like, 'Look, you're not doing it right.' I just thought it was time: I see so many beautiful women out there and I just want to put them on the catwalk." 

SIZE POSITIVE
"I think attitudes are changing. There is something in the air. Some people are picking up on it. Others… not so quickly,” Fast said. 

With criticism that the garments looked too small on the models with underwear was clearly cutting into bodies, British Vogue editor Alexander Shulman noted: "It was pointed out that their boobs were jiggling up and down." 

"The girls were at a slight disadvantage and it wasn't because they were bigger, it was because the clothes didn't suit them. I don't think the Mark Fast show alone will change anything. Or one picture in Glamour,” she added. "It's not as simple as that. You are trying to change a whole culture. But my own feeling is a slight optimism that things will be changing."

This is not ma article..
i copied frm supermodel.com 

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